LA VIDA COLOMBIANA - Medellin, Cartagena Colombia Feb-Mar 2018

LA VIDA COLOMBIANA

Medellin & Cartagena,Colombia  Feb-Mar 2018

Doin' the dance

In December 2015 we began our Big Adventure in Colombia, with brief stops in Cartagena, Bogota and Medellin. Mike returned to Cartagena alone January 2017 when Eileen needed to divert to San Francisco to tend to Briana after a nasty skiing injury. 

This time we returned together for a month in Medellin and two weeks in Cartagena, bringing our 2 1/2 years of traveling full circle. 

Back to modeling

Years ago they established an innovation initiative to bring new tech jobs to Medellin, a place formerly notorious for its drug cartels and murder rate. Now, with the Metro system as a source of pride, great restaurants/cafes, and entrepreneurial energy, it is a dramatically different place.

Amazing art at every turn

We stayed in Laureles again, with everything we needed in walking distance. Our recently renovated apartment was comfortable but the police station motos and construction across the street made it difficult to teach and sleep.

View from the top

Botero is one of our favorite artists so we revisited the Museo de Antioquia where he donated his private collection and the plaza in front which had so many of his statues. 

Making friends

We  also returned to Museo de la Memoria. We found it so impactful in how it tells the story of those lost during decades of civil war. They have a library and resource center which works to promote peace everywhere. 

We remember Medellin street art being primarily in only a few of the comunas. Since then it has spread even further and many are now sponsored by the city. Some of the most striking are found in Comuna 13 which we first learned about during the graffiti tour.

Every day coffee break

On our way to teach in Comuna 13 we found a coffee shop owned by a sweet couple, Jaime and Lia, who live with their daughters in the same building. 

Moving on up

The coffee is the best (we're in Colombia) and they have positioned themselves for success with all of the tours that pass by right outside their door. Eileen couldn't resist bringing back chocolates made by Lia's sister which have a coffee bean nestled inside each piece.


The escaleras electricas remain a proud focal point for the community. They have become central to life in this barrio. The change is palpable compared to two years ago. Hostels now bring large groups daily. There are numerous businesses up and down the hill that cater to the many tourists that pass through every day. 

Our two weeks in Cartagena...

Doing the Vida Boca

Where's Cinderella?

 ...were filled with great food and volunteer work. Our tiny apartment (which had bikes, snorkeling gear, and stiletto heels to lend) was in a great location in the Old City but in a busy spot.

Party buses would park near the artisan market across the street and the mini-mercado next door was a gathering place for the locals.
Restful sleep as a result was difficult to find especially on the weekends when it was a nearly nonstop fiesta.

Everything's abloom

To get a break we stayed at a new hotel in Boca Grande for a few nights with breakfast and a small, but serviceable rooftop pool. Our previous impression of this neighborhood was that it was overrun with tourists. We were pleasantly surprised to find it similar to our time in Medellin. There's a great selection of restaurants and a nice beach was only two blocks away.

The city lights up 

We also had the pleasure of our favorite tri-country friend (Peru, Ecuador, and now Colombia) Andrea visiting us. She was able to accompany us to our volunteer activities the last few days. 

And while she agreed that the heat and humidity were a dastardly combination, she also appreciated Cartagena's allure.

Fruitful endeavors

However contrived it might feel, the streets of the old city remain enchanting. There is the never-ending parade of horse-drawn carriages, the human statues hoping to earn money, and the balconies bedecked with flowers bursting with color.

There is also ample evidence of the Afro-Caribe roots, most noticeably displayed in the colorful garb of the fruit vendors. Disneyland for adults? Maybe, but we have also seen the real Cartagena outside the walled city. We love them both.