ADDICTED TO COLOMBIA - Bogota, Medellin, Cartagena, Colombia Dec 2015

ADDICTED TO COLOMBIA

Bogota, Medellin, Cartagena, Colombia--  Dec 2016

Going to Colombia may not be everyone's first choice for their initial step into their life of travel. However, it ended up being the perfect one for us. Sure, we had heard about the drug kingpin Pablo Escobar and that Medellin not too long ago was considered one of the most dangerous places in the world.

Once Ground Zero for violence

But we also knew that major efforts had been made to change the country's image and that the FARC guerillas and the government were on the verge of signing a peace agreement. We looked forward to seeing the "new Colombia." After checking in at our volunteer assignment in Cartagena, we set off for Bogota. 

The Salt Cathedral

In all honesty, Bogata didn't feel like the safest place and we avoided taking public transportation--not typically our style. Even Mike's former work associate warned us against taking taxis.

We did enjoy going to the Museo de Oro, walking through the mercado, and went on a fascinating side trip to the Salt Cathedral. In our tour group was a couple around our age that was a member of the "100 Club," having been to more than 100 countries. Something for us to aspire to!

Medellin, on the other hand, was nothing short of amazing. From the Botero statues, to the Museo Casa de Memoria, to the salpicon treats, we couldn't get enough of this modern, vibrant city that won "Innovative City of the Year" award in 2012 based on its economy, urban development, and use of technology.

Bigger is beautiful-Botero

Moving on up

On our "graffiti tour" we got to see exactly why it was so named. We visited "Comuna 13," an extremely poor barrio in the hills that was once the epicenter of the drug trade. The government has since installed outdoor escalators, linking this community that was previously isolated with the rest of the city. This proved to be boon to the economy, since tourists now frequent local shops, and the area is a new source of pride for the residents. A far cry from being "the murder capital of the world" in the early 90's.

The Graffiti Guru

Our tour guide told us how graffiti had become an important vehicle for self-expression for young people. We even got to try out our talents with spray cans and a canvas. Our efforts, however, did not point to a future career.

Medellin made no attempt to bury its sordid past, but rather embraced it with the understanding "Those who do not remember the past are doomed to repeat it." This was in evidence in places like the Museo Casa de la Memoria, a painful reminder of their violent past. 

Heads up--fruit on the way.

We then returned to Cartagena to conduct our leadership workshops and explore the city. Admittedly, there was something almost Disney-esque about the Old City, crowded with tourists, frequently ferried about in the endless parade of horse-drawn carriages. 

The women, dressed in their Afro-Caribbean outfits, were plying their wares consisting of unworldly large avocados and tropical fruits. It was clearly meant for the turistas, as was the dance group that performed every evening to the same drum beat.

Mike's daily snack

But we couldn't help but feel deep affection for the narrow, cobblestone streets, the delicious and amazingly inexpensive food, and the local people trying to eke out a living.

Flowers bedecking balconies

Mike found his favorite "arepa con queso guy." Eileen frequented "Crepes and Waffles," the Colombian chain which had the best salad bar in town--or out of town, for that matter. It was founded to help single mothers and still only employs women throughout the country.

We also took a fun weekend side trip to Santa Marta and a less-than-fun day excursion to the much-touted Playa Blanca, which involved a terrifying (for Eileen) high-speed boat ride and constant harassment by overzealous vendors (especially for Mike), including one woman who grabbed his leg in an attempt to give him a masaje (massage).

But despite the stultifying heat and overly turista vibe, we felt like we got to know the "real Cartagena"--and we loved it.