JETTING ABOUT JAPAN--Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima, Sendai, Shiogama, Japan. April 2018

JETTING ABOUT JAPAN

Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima, Sendai, Shiogama - Japan - April 2018

There's something almost sacrilegious about flitting across a country, known for its orderliness and propriety, with what seemed like a mindless rapidity. Certainly, Eileen's Japanese students' were flabbergasted (not exactly a Japanese emotion) when she told them what we were packing into a couple of weeks, including cities that they had yet to visit.

But our reasons were two-fold. First, we were able to coordinate the trip with Briana's spring break and we wanted her to enjoy at least a few cities.

Second, the more we learned about this fascinating country, the more we realized how great the differences were between different cities, prefectures, and regions. We wanted to experience as much of Japan's diversity as possible.

TOKYO

We arrived in Tokyo after an 11-hour flight from Los Angeles, fairly exhausted since movie-watching vetoed sleep. We were met at the airport by Yoko, one of Eileen's students, and her husband, with a detailed map and complete PowerPoint presentation on the country. 

They kindly shepherded their weary travelers to our apartment, which we probably could not

A warm Japan welcome

have found on our own. Briana bowed out for the rest of the evening, but after a walk to the train station, two trains and 1/2 hour wait, we were seated at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant, known as kaiten-zushi.

Some truly special features: after enjoying the delicious sushi, each small plate was tossed into a slot where a machine counted them to  the sum to pay at the end of dinner. Also, there was a touch screen for special orders and a chute that quickly dispensed said order directly from the kitchen to our table. 

Hedging our bets

In addition to treating us to delicious sushi and sake, Yoko handed us a beautiful gift: a book on making and identifying sushi. It was an evening that ended around 11pm and we were sooo tired, but it was the perfect welcome.

Totally star struck

The next day we were out early enough to experience the morning commute. Hundreds of workers filled the streets, noiselessly moving along at a rapid clip. 

We were afraid we would be violating unwritten rules if we talked or even smiled;  Japanese work culture made this a very serious place. Fortunately, we found everyone welcoming and friendly as they day wore on. And the activities we decided to indulge in were anything but staid. 

Lights! Camera! Action!

Our first stop was Harry the Hedgehog Cafe, per Briana's wishes, and had a half-hour of frolicking (cum gloves) with these spiky, yet adorable little creatures. 

More sushi, please

The afternoon activity was the cannot-be-adequately-explained Robot Restaurant. From the Las Vegas style waiting room to the  dark room way underneath the earth--not good for the claustrophobic among us--the restaurant had an unworldly feeling...and that was even before the show started. There were glowing neon drinks served in a light bulb and food that was hustled shamelessly in between acts.

The show itself was filled with loud voices, pulsating music, blinding neon lights, and an assortment of characters that looked like they stepped out of someone's bad acid trip. And, yes, it was tons of fun. After the show we had a lovely dinner with Eileen's student Kumiko, who had just attended the opening ceremony for her son's university.

Catching the last of the blossoms

The next day another student, Tomoko, met us at our spacious apartment (which had its very own Google assistant; for Eileen it was love at first command) and walked with us to the train station. It was a short but wonderful visit together.

We even found one sole tree in full bloom along the way with cherry blossoms which made for a perfect photo op before we boarded our train for Kyoto.

KYOTO

The bountiful bento box

Of course we couldn't board the train without buying several of the some 200 varieties of bento boxes sold at the station. They were a wonderful combination of tasty little tidbits, beautifully presented, as was typical of all the Japanese food we were served.

Fuji filmed

Some of those tidbits could be identified, others not so much. 

Owing to excellent advice passed on by another of Eileen's students, we made sure to sit on the right side of the train. About one-half hour after leaving Tokyo we found out exactly why: we were perfectly positioned to snap photos of iconic Mt. Fuji as the train sped by. 

Vic-torii-ous

Kyoto, formerly the Imperial capital of Japan, is known for its traditional culture, beautiful shrines, and temples. Our apartment was equally traditional, which involved sleeping on the floor on futons, tatami mats, and sitting around the low-lying kitchen table sans chairs.

Can you spot the artist?

Our trip was the perfect balance between old and new. Top of the list was the Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine, with its spectacular array of red toriis, each of which has been donated by a Japanese business. 

Venturing into the Gion area, Briana had her hopes set on seeing an authentic geisha. Unfortunately, we were there at the wrong time of day but we did happen to see dozens of inauthentic geishas--tourists who paid to traipse through the streets wearing traditional clothing. Let's just say there was little danger of confusing them with the real deal.

Playing koi

We did, however, time it right in visiting the Forever Museum 
of Contemporary Art, which had an impressive collection of Yayoi Kusama art, one of Briana's favorites and now one of ours.

The museum looked out on an exquisite garden and a pond filled with happy fish, presumably because they were not destined for a sushi platter.

The ramen tasting booth

We did have our share of delicious food, however, at one of the best known ramen restaurants in the city. Instead of sitting together, we each had our own separate booth so we could really appreciate the full ramen experience.

Ahhhh.....ramen

Each booth had a curtain in back, opened just long enough to hand off those steaming bowls, filled with ingredients we carefully selected from our options sheet. That array of options included everything from the thickness of the noodles to the richness of the broth.

Feeling grove-y

We met with Momoko (yes, another wonderful student) to travel to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, which was very impressive and filled with tourists, who apparently must have had a two-day rental on their geisha outfits.

All that glitters

The last morning Mike and Briana rode bicycles to Kinkaku-ji, or The Golden Pavilion. While they were frustrated in not being able to go back through the temple after unwittingly exiting, they did get some amazing photos.

OSAKA

Although we were told by several Japanese friends that people in Osaka were funny, that was not one of the many revelations we had here. We did find it to be a really fun place so maybe that's what they meant after all. 

As fresh as they come

The first night, Eileen's student Hiroko, who she previously met in Bangkok the year before, took the train from Kobe to meet us for dinner. 

Hanging with Hiroko

She brought us to an izakaya, which roughly translates to a local Japanese pub, and ordered from the menu a tantalizing mix of foods we could never have figured out on our own (not to mention that it was all in Japanese). It was really special knowing that most foreigners don't get to enjoy this unique experience, which included listening to the cooks and waiters loudly banter back and forth.

Castle in the air

Mike and Eileen paid a quick visit to the Osaka Castle, while Briana saved up her energy for what would be a vigorous day of eating and shopping. 

Magic in the making

The shopping was an unqualified success; after much debate Briana purchased her very own sukajan, an exquisitely embroidered bomber jacket--the perfect souvenir--at a fraction of the price it would have cost online. 

The next day we met Eileen 's student Mieko and her son, Hiro, for lunch at a restaurant called Chibo, a place known for its okonomiyaki, a Japanese savory pancake. Let's just say that our taste buds will never be the same again. 

Five satisfied customers

It was so delicious that we were still talking about it days...weeks...and probably months after. We have no idea exactly what was in it, fresh veggies, seafood (on some), and a drizzle of magic sauce and mayonnaise on top.

We tried to replicate the experience in Hiroshima and Seoul....not even close.

HIROSHIMA

Singing Samurais

Sadly, we had to part ways with Briana since she needed to go back to this outmoded concept called work ;). With the typical drama that seems to dog her travels, high winds almost diverted her plane returning to Tokyo, potentially putting her in danger of missing her flight to the States. 

Ring the bell for peace

Fortunately, it all worked out and the two of us set out for our next destination.

Sadness did, however, set the tone for our arrival to Hiroshima, which experienced the devastation of World War II's first atomic bomb. We wandered this well manicured, flourishing city in disbelief: How could it be so resilient in light of the horror it endured?

Doves send a message

A clue was provided by the emphasis on peace wherever we looked. One of its main streets was Peace Boulevard. There was the Children's Peace Monument, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. And, of course, there's the iconic Atom Bomb Dome.

The Dome as a reminder

Clearly they have taken to heart the aphorism, "Those who cannot remember the past are doomed to repeat it."

In other words, no one should ever have to go through what they have been through. It was ironic to be there at a time when North Korea and the U.S. were trading barbs about who has the bigger "button" to unleash a nuclear arsenal. Short memories, perhaps?

The peaceful garden

But all was not gloom in this beautiful city--actually far from it. We enjoyed viewing the rebuilt Hiroshima Castle and visited one of the most beautiful parks we've ever seen, Shukkei-en. Dating back to the 16th century, restored after 1945, the Japanese garden contains a lake, a koi-filled pond, waterfalls, and the only tree that survived the bomb. Its seeds have been sent around the world, spreading the message of peace.

Our chef at work 

We also found some great eating spots, which as no surprise. While the Hiroshima noodle-filled okonomiyaki bore little resemblance to its Osaka cousin, it was respectable in its own right.

SENDAI AND SHIOGAMA

Hanging with the hometown heroes

After a short three-day jaunt to Seoul, South Korea we flew back to Japan for the final leg of our journey. Our first night was in Sendai. It would have been too easy to spend just a quiet night in, but Mike thought it would be fun to go watch a baseball game. Eileen couldn't possibly disagree. The home town team, the Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles, just happened to be playing that night at the stadium, a short walk from the hotel. 

Something looks fishy

As we approached the stadium we were amused to hear the loudspeakers blaring, "Take Me Out to the Ballgame." 

But that's where the resemblances ended, from the polite and comparatively subdued crowd with a lively designated cheering section to the purely Japanese snacks. A great evening and, to top it off, the home team came from behind to win the game.

The big catch

Hiro, one of Eileen's long-term students, picked us up bright and early to bring us back to his hometown of Shiogama. Tomoko, his wife, was working at the bakery, would join us later for dinner. 

The first stop was the Shiogama Fish Market where we saw huge tuna brought in from the latest catch. We then went to visit where the fish were sold--a cavernous warehouse space filled with vendors of every type of fish and seafood imaginable. 

The pearls of seafood

After all that watching, it was time to do some tasting. Hiro brought us to a special spot where they sold raw oysters--not only the largest oysters we had ever seen, but probably the largest we will ever eat, all in one delicious, slimy gulp.

We then went on a boat ride, touring around Matsushima Bay, with hundreds of pine tree-covered islands. After lunch at one of Hiro's favorite noodle houses, we visited a memorial site for the victims of the March 2011 tsunami.

Coming back home

Remember the littlest victims

As the story goes, a young boy who lost his five-year-old brother to the tsunami, put up a blue carp kite so that he could find his way home. Soon people around the world were sending their kites to be displayed in memory. It was a beautiful and equally heartbreaking sight. In addition to countless grave stones, the memorial site was filled with a striking sea of these blue carp kites.

Hiro and Tomoko

Opening ceremonies

That night Hiro's wife, Tomoko, joined us for dinner at one of the best conveyor belt sushi restaurants, known as kaiten-zushi (or literally "rotation sushi") in town. 

Once again, we were amazed at the quantity our Japanese friends were able to consume long after we had ordered our last plate-- and yet maintain their characteristic slim and healthy  appearance. The moral of this story: Sushi for life!

Beautiful and traditional

From youngest to oldest

The next day was very special and, in part, our reason for coming to Shiogama at this particular time. After visiting the Shiogama Shrine and Museum, we were able to witness the main event of this annual festival.

Dressed in traditional garments from the Edo period was a long parade of men, women, and children making their way down a steep 200-step flight of stairs. At the end of the procession was a group of very sturdy men carrying the portable shrine, or mikoshi (which easily weighed more than one ton), one delicate, arduous step at a time. 

A burst of color

Although Hiro had sent a link to a video of this celebration and described it in detail, nothing could have prepared us for the vivid display of colors, the crowds of people, and their nothing short of amazing descent.

The careful descent

As foreigners, we felt privileged not only to be a part of this festival, but to see it through the eyes of someone who grew up with it and clearly loved the spectacle. As for Hiro, he later wrote to us, "I never expected that I would take my foreign friends to show around my hometown. It was beyond my dreams." 

That afternoon we set off for a drive through the countryside to a classic resort where we would be spending the night, the Yutomori Club. The highlight was the outdoor hot springs, or onsen, separated by gender, with bathing suits strictly forbidden. Despite our initial timidity, we quickly acclimated to this quintessential ritual. 

And although Tomoko couldn't speak English and Eileen's Japanese vocabulary was limited, Google Translate came through and they were able to communicate.

The breakfast buffet

From the automatic beer dispenser that properly angled your glass to the freedom to wear spa clothes (aka pajamas) throughout the resort with indescribably lavish buffets, it was an unforgettable Japanese experience--and, once again, one which few foreigners are privy to.  

We felt that way about much of this special Japan experience and are very, very grateful to all our Japanese friends. A heartfelt arigato!